As darkness settled over the Belizean countryside, we wound our way through the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, still buzzing from our adventure in the ancient Maya underworld of ATM Cave. The 40-minute drive from San Ignacio to Blancaneaux Lodge carried us deeper into the wilderness, with the road flanked by towering pines and an air of solitude accompanying each passing mile.
Francis Ford Coppola discovered this hidden corner of Belize years ago, transforming what was once a humble hunting lodge into an eco-luxury retreat. Thatched-roof cabanas and elegant villas blend seamlessly into the jungle canopy, while the Privassion River weaves its way over granite boulders below. The lodge feels like a scene from a carefully composed film—manicured gardens transition effortlessly into untamed jungle, crystal-clear pools shimmer under the sky, and the organic farm and stable contribute to the sense of a self-sufficient paradise.
What truly sets this destination apart is its location within the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, a geological and botanical anomaly in Belize. Unlike the lush rainforests found elsewhere in the country, this microclimate supports stately Caribbean Pines that stretch toward the heavens, evoking landscapes more akin to North America than Central America.
First Night: Check-In at Blancaneaux Lodge and Relax
Arriving at Blancaneaux Lodge after sunset, we were both exhausted from the day’s adventures. Opting for a quiet evening, we decided to stay on the property and unwind.
Dinner took place at Montagna Ristorante, one of the lodge’s Italian-inspired eateries. We ordered pasta, crostini, and the special cocktail of the day. While the ambiance was lovely, the meal felt a touch overpriced and didn’t quite match the high standards set by the lodge’s luxurious surroundings.
After dinner, we wound down with a soak in the warm, U-shaped pool nestled by the river. The sound of the water and the tranquil atmosphere made it a perfect way to relax. Back in our room, we were delighted by the thoughtful turndown service: lit candles created a cozy, inviting glow that capped off the evening beautifully.
Morning: Exploring On-Site Activities
Our final day in Belize began with a leisurely pace. A quick continental breakfast fueled us for the day, though it proved to be as underwhelming as the dinner the night before. Undeterred, we set out to explore the lodge’s activities.
We started with inner tubing along the Privassion River, an easygoing and enjoyable experience. A guide provided us with inner tubes and led a short hike to the starting point, where we launched into the calm waters. The gentle current carried us back to the property in under an hour—a peaceful way to start the morning.
Next, we borrowed the lodge’s bikes and cycled down a dirt road to Big Rock Falls. The ride was invigorating but manageable, thanks to the well-maintained bikes. Upon arriving, we descended a steep staircase to the waterfall’s base, where the view was absolutely breathtaking. Cascading water and the surrounding greenery made it a highlight of the day.
Afternoon: Exploring Mountain Pine Ridge Forest
Our afternoon began with a trip to Rio Frio Cave, an impressive natural wonder we had heard about from a fellow traveler. She had recounted a tale of getting her car stuck in the mud and requiring a massive tractor to pull it out. So, when we arrived to find the road blocked off, we weren’t surprised. We parked further up the road and walked in past the barrier—a fortunate decision, as we had the cave entirely to ourselves.
The cave’s scale was jaw-dropping, far surpassing our expectations. Natural light flooded the enormous entrances, illuminating much of the interior. Although we didn’t bring a flashlight, the abundance of light made it easy to navigate most areas. The middle sections were darker and a bit more challenging to explore, but the experience was unforgettable.
On our way back, we stopped at the Rio On Pools, a series of granite pools shaped over centuries by the flowing river. The pools are connected by small waterfalls and surrounded by lush greenery, creating an idyllic spot for swimming and relaxing. I took a quick dip, but as clouds gathered and the temperature dropped, we spent most of our time wandering along the pools, soaking in the tranquil atmosphere.
Evening: Exploring Blancaneaux Lodge's Grounds and Dining in San Antonio
As the day wound down, we returned to Blancaneaux Lodge for a final stroll around its picturesque grounds. With happy hour in full swing, we grabbed cocktails from the bar and wandered through the extensive vegetable garden that supplies fresh produce to the lodge’s restaurants. We also visited the stables, where the resident horses greeted us warmly. Given more time, we would have loved to try the garden tour and cooking class offered at the lodge.
That evening, the on-site Guatemalan restaurant was closed, so we drove to D Family Restaurant in the nearby village of San Antonio. Sitting on the upstairs deck, we enjoyed a stunning sunset while savoring fajitas and quesadillas. The combination of warm hospitality, flavorful food, and serene ambiance made it a memorable dining experience.
The next morning, after a quick breakfast, we embarked on the hour-and-a-half drive back to the airport, reflecting on the incredible experiences and cherished memories from our time in Belize.
Conclusion
The Mountain Pine Ridge Forest offers a distinct and enchanting environment unlike anywhere else in Belize. Experiencing its beauty while staying at the luxurious Blancaneaux Lodge was a privilege I’ll never forget. If you’re planning a visit to this remarkable destination, feel free to reach out—I’d love to share tips or help with recommendations!
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