After leaving the tranquil beauty of Sleeping Giant Rainforest Lodge, my partner and I made our way to San Ignacio, a lively yet compact town in Belize's Cayo District. While it's not a large city, San Ignacio packs a lot into its tiny footprint, with a buzzing core of bars and restaurants that stretch just a few blocks wide. It's the kind of place where the energy is palpable, and the streets seem to hum with the chatter of locals and travelers alike.
San Ignacio isn't just a great place to stay; it's also the ideal base for exploring Belize's most fascinating attractions. The town is a gateway to countless adventures, from ancient Maya ruins to jungle rivers and caves. Even before unpacking our bags, we were planning to dive into everything this incredible region offers.
Finding Our Base
We decided to stay at Ka'ana Resort, about seven minutes outside the main town center. Many mid-tier accommodations like ours are situated on the outskirts, offering a more serene setting while keeping you close enough to enjoy San Ignacio's vibrant atmosphere. This setup struck the perfect balance for us—peace when we wanted it, but just a short drive away from all the action.
Day 1: Exploring San Ignacio and a Change of Plans
Upon arriving in San Ignacio, our first stop was Cahal Pech, one of the oldest Maya sites in Belize, conveniently located within the town itself. A short walk along a paved path led us to the site's courtyards, surrounded by impressive stone ruins. Although relatively small, Cahal Pech features over 30 structures, making it an excellent introduction to Maya history. Its accessible size and location also make it ideal for those unable to visit the more significant, remote sites.
Next on our itinerary was the Xunantunich ruins, renowned for El Castillo, a 130-foot-tall pyramid and one of the tallest structures in Belize. Unfortunately, after making the 20-minute drive from town, we found the site was inaccessible—a sign informed us that the ferry required to cross the river was closed. Later, we learned from a tour guide that this hand-cranked ferry had been shut down due to nearly 20 feet of flooding caused by a recent storm system. With water levels still too high for safe operation, visiting Xunantunich wasn't possible during our trip. Although the ferry reopened on our final day, we had already been to Tikal by then and couldn't fit it back into our schedule. The ferry is rarely closed, but I would still recommend checking online before going.
With our plans for the day unexpectedly cut short, we returned to San Ignacio, where we spent the afternoon exploring the town. We wandered its colorful streets, admiring vibrant street art, and eventually stopped at a charming streetside bar called The Burnz. There, we enjoyed a refreshing mojito while chatting with the bartender and soaking in the town's laid-back atmosphere.
That evening, we kept things simple since we had an early start planned for our day-long trip to Tikal. Taking advantage of a hotel credit from our Amex Platinum card, we dined at Wallace Bar, the restaurant at our hotel. After dinner, we headed back to our room to rest and prepare for the adventures ahead.
Day 2: Day Trip to Tikal from San Ignacio
Our second day began with an early start, as we had a long drive ahead of us out of Belize into Guatemala to see Tikal. We drove into town and parked in the main parking area in San Ignacio below the MayaWalk Tours office. Our small tour group of four departed San Ignacio around 7:00 AM in a compact SUV. Before heading to the border, we made a quick stop at a streetside food cart, where a couple of us grabbed burritos to tide us over until lunch. At the border crossing, we had an opportunity to exchange Belizean dollars for Guatemalan currency before meeting up with our Guatemalan guide. From there, we transferred to a more spacious tour van and continued our journey toward Tikal.
The drive from the border to Tikal was quiet, aside from a lengthy stop for our guide to have breakfast and for others to use the restroom. The roads in Guatemala were noticeably rougher than those in Belize, and recent hurricane damage made for a bumpy ride at times. Despite the less-than-smooth journey, we arrived at Tikal eager to explore.
After parking, taking a bathroom break, and passing through the security gate, we explored the awe-inspiring Tikal site for the next three hours. Once a thriving city and ceremonial hub of the ancient Maya civilization, Tikal peaked between 200 and 900 CE, with a population estimated in the tens of thousands. Today, it's renowned for its towering pyramids, including the iconic Temple I and Temple IV, as well as its sprawling plazas, ball courts, and residential complexes. Rediscovered in the mid-19th century, Tikal has since become a cornerstone of Maya archaeological research, revealing fascinating insights into their culture, architecture, and astronomy.
Fortunately, the weather was mild that day, which made climbing the steep stairs to the tops of the ruins much more manageable. I couldn't imagine how challenging it would have been in the region's infamous heat. While we couldn't cover the entirety of the site due to time constraints, we managed to visit the most significant and iconic areas, soaking in the incredible history and breathtaking views.
After our exploration, we had a lunch of chicken and rice before returning to the van for the return journey to San Ignacio. Upon arriving at the hotel, we freshened up and stopped by the bar for a few drinks before venturing into town for dinner. Both our tour operator and another member of our group had recommended Ko-Ox Han Nah, so we decided to give it a try. While the restaurant is known for its meat dishes, we opted for a lighter meal of curry and rice, which was both satisfying and flavorful.
Though we briefly considered going out for another drink, we decided to head back to the hotel for an early night to prepare for the following day's adventure: a day-long tour of the ATM Cave.
Day 3: Exploring the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave
Our final day in San Ignacio would be spent exploring the ATM Cave, which required a later start time so we could try the hotel's continental breakfast. In hindsight, we should have skipped it—the bland offerings couldn't compare to the streetside burrito we enjoyed the previous morning.
Actun Tunichil Muknal, which translates to "Cave of the Crystal Sepulcher," is a natural limestone cave formed over thousands of years by the flow of water carving through the rock. Located in Belize's Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve, the cave extends deep into the earth, with chambers once used by the ancient Maya for sacred rituals. Archaeologists first explored the ATM Cave in the late 1980s, uncovering evidence of its significance as a ceremonial site. Later, the government certified 25 guides to be licensed to operate inside the caves, and it wasn't until 2024 that a new group of guides was certified.
The MayaWalk tour group for the ATM Cave was much larger than our Tikal group, so we were divided into three separate vans. From the start, it was clear our guide for the day was exceptional. Unlike the quieter guides we had going to Tikal, he was engaging, knowledgeable, and made a genuine effort to connect with everyone in the group. He emphasized the importance of staying hydrated and being prepared for the challenging hike into the wet cave system, even stopping at a small shop to stock up on Gatorade and water. We later learned that he was one of the original guides certified and had over 20 years of experience giving this exact tour.
After leaving the main road, we traveled another 30 minutes along a rough dirt path through scenic farmlands before arriving at the site. Once there, we geared up with life jackets and helmets and began the journey to the caves in small groups. The hike was relatively short and flat, but it required crossing a river multiple times right from the start. Thankfully, no one in our group seemed to struggle with the crossings.
Upon reaching the cave entrance, we stored our water bottles in nearby trees, adjusted our helmet lights, and jumped into the cool water. The entrance was the deepest open water section we encountered, requiring a quick swim from one side of the cave to the other. From there, we spent the next hour and a half navigating the cave system. The terrain varied, with sections of ankle-deep water and others where we waded up to our chests. Along the way, the guide instructed us on how to stay safe while pointing out cool rock features. Pretty quickly into the adventure, I decided this was one of the most incredible things I'd ever done in my life.
Eventually, we climbed out of the main chamber and into a dry section of the cave that the Maya used for sacred rituals. From here, we were required to hike in socks to protect this fragile area, and designated paths marked with blue painter's tape showed where we could and couldn't stop. Here, we saw skeletal remains believed to be from human sacrifices, along with ancient pottery fused to the cave floor over time. At the very end of the dry chamber, we climbed a ladder into a small, cramped space to view the famous "Crystal Maiden," a skeleton believed to be the victim of human sacrifice whose bones have been calcified over time, giving them a sparkling appearance.
After exploring the sacred chamber, we retraced our steps to exit the cave. On the way back, our guide took us through a slightly more adventurous route, including squeezing through tight spaces and floating along the current where swimming wasn't impossible. Many in the group agreed it was the most fun part of the day.
Once back at the entrance, we hiked to the picnic area, where we were served a satisfying lunch of chicken and rice paired with a refreshing cold soda. The tour organizers did an excellent job of grouping participants by fitness level, allowing our group—mostly young and active travelers—to move through the caves more quickly. However, because the other group in our van consisted of older individuals and finished much later, we had to wait about an hour before leaving the site.
We returned to San Ignacio later than expected, but with Belize being so compact, there was still time for everyone to continue their travels. One couple in our group was heading south, another was off to San Pedro, and we were preparing for our next stop: the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest.
Conclusion: Discovering the Charm of San Ignacio, Belize
As a gateway to iconic sites like Xunantunich and even Tikal, San Ignacio is more than a base—it's a destination that leaves an impression through its energy, beauty, and welcoming atmosphere. For travelers seeking a mix of adventure and cultural discovery, this town offers an unforgettable experience, from exploring the ancient ruins at Cahal Pech to navigating the waters of the ATM Cave.
Let me know in the comments if you are ready to plan your trip to San Ignacio!
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