My partner and I had an unforgettable road trip through Italy at the end of April, during the shoulder season on the Amalfi Coast. We were drawn to the region's vibrant atmosphere and natural beauty, which we were determined to experience while avoiding the summer crowds. Our goal was simple: to see as much of the stunning beauty of the Amalfi Coast as possible. So, despite the warnings we read about not driving, we knew we had to rent a car. Our journey began in Naples and unfolded over two amazing days before we continued to Puglia. Below is a detailed account of our road trip—filled with personal experiences, tips, and some must-see spots that will inspire your Italian adventure.
Table of Contents
Road tripping through the Amalfi Coast in 3 days
Day One: Naples
Exploring Naples
Our first day in Italy was spent exploring Naples. We landed in the early evening, and after a bit of a scramble mentioned more below, we hit the streets. Our first stop was Trattoria Pizzeria Sannino. The pizza was hands down one of the best we had in Italy—thin, crispy, and topped with fresh ingredients. The friendly atmosphere and cozy vibe made it the perfect welcome to Italian dining.
After stuffing ourselves with pizza, we wandered around the Spagnoli district. The Spagnoli district is brimming with life, filled with small shops and cafes. It has an authentic, local feel often missing in more tourist-heavy areas. What struck us most was how packed the bars lining the narrow streets were. The real star of the night was Mennella II Gelato. I still dream about that gelato! It was easily the best we had during our entire trip, and trust me, we tried a lot of gelato.
Where I Stayed in Naples
We initially booked an Airbnb, but after the airline told us we were going to be delayed by a day in Istanbul, we had some communication issues with the host and weren't able to reconnect with him once we actually got in on time. Upon arriving in the airport we scrambled to find a last-minute alternative. Luckily, we found the Grand Hotel Oriente, and it ended up being a great choice. Located in the heart of Naples, it was close to everything we wanted to explore, including local restaurants, historical sites, and the waterfront.
The room was spacious and clean and had all the necessary modern amenities. After a long day of travel, the comfortable bed was a welcomed relief. Plus, being able to walk out the front door and be surrounded by the lively streets of Naples was a huge bonus. For anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation—needing a last-minute hotel—I'd recommend checking out this place.
Day Two: Pompeii & Sorrento
Exploring Pompeii & Sorrento
We couldn't miss Pompeii on this trip, so we dedicated the first part of Day Two to exploring this ancient site. I recommend reading my full What to Know Before You Go article for all the details on planning a visit. We spent hours walking through the ruins, marveling at the preserved remnants of Roman life frozen in time. It's hard to describe the feeling of walking down ancient streets that have been eerily quiet for centuries. Pompeii is massive, so wear comfortable shoes and bring water!
After our day in Pompeii, we drove to Sorrento for dinner at Ristorante Bagni Delfino, located at Spiaggia di Sorrento. This family-owned restaurant is perched right on the water, offering stunning views of the ocean and the colorful buildings that line the beach. We sat outside, watching the sunset while enjoying some of the best seafood I've ever had. Their tiramisu? Absolutely divine. The service was top-notch, and the relaxed atmosphere was just what we needed after a busy day of sightseeing.
Where I Stayed in Sorrento
We spent the night at MelRose Relais, a quaint little hotel with incredible ocean views. Because it was shoulder season, the hotel seemed probably half full. We only saw a few people at breakfast or at dinner, but the parking lot was full at night, which would make me concerned about what parking is like when they are full. Parking is located behind a gate that is activated with a key card. Don't lose your key card like my partner thought they did, or you will be locked out.
At the bar we enjoyed a classic Italian aperitivo, complete with prosecco and light bites. It was the perfect way to unwind after a full day of exploring. The best part of the hotel, though, was the view. Waking up and sitting on the balcony with the sight of the ocean stretching out in front of us was something I'll never forget. If you're looking for a peaceful, stylish place to stay in Sorrento, MelRose Relais is a great option.
Day Three: Punta Campanella, Positano, and Fiordo di Furore
Exploring Punta Campanella, Positano & Fiordo di Furore
Our third day started with a hike to Punta Campanella, a breathtaking area on the Amalfi Coast. This was one of the highlights of our trip. The trail was challenging, but the views made it all worth it. The best part? Repelling down to the Grotta di Minerva. It was such an adrenaline rush, and the grotto itself is stunning. I've written a full post about the hike and what to expect if you're interested!
From there, we made our way to Positano, a picturesque town that's as dreamy in person as it looks in photos. However, getting into the town was another story. Positano's streets are incredibly narrow, and parking is scarce. We had to park in a garage and, unfortunately, watched as the attendant scraped our rental car against a wall. Thankfully, we'd gotten insurance on the rental car (I highly recommend it if you plan to drive in Italy!), so it didn't ruin our day. We ended up having lunch at Chez Black by the water. The pizza was great, but the atmosphere—overlooking the ocean and people-watching—was what really made the meal memorable.
Later in the day, we visited Fiordo di Furore, a hidden gem with no easy access. We hiked over two miles down steep stairs from our Airbnb to reach the beach. The hike was tough, but the secluded beach, with its rocky shores and cool water, made the effort worth it. Since it was shoulder season, the beach wasn't too crowded, though the water was still cold for swimming.
Where I Stayed in San Michele
We spent the night at La Vigna di Bacco, an Airbnb with amazing views of the ocean from high above. The room was cozy, and breakfast was complimentary, which was a nice touch. The only downside was a malfunctioning heater in our room, which kept turning on despite the warm weather outside. The host was responsive and tried to fix it, but it took a bit of time to resolve. Overall, though, the views and location made up for the inconvenience.
Conclusion
Overall, our road trip along the Amalfi Coast was everything we'd hoped for and more. Driving between the towns gave us the freedom to see places we might not have otherwise explored, like Punta Campanella and Fiordo di Furore. That being said, driving on the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint of heart. It's as stressful as everyone says, and if we weren't continuing on to Matera and Puglia, we probably would have chosen alternate transportation. Highlights of the trip included dinner in Sorrento, the hike at Punta Campanella, and watching the sunset over the Amalfi cliffs. If you're planning a trip to this region, I hope our experience helps guide your itinerary and shows you a little slice of Italy's magic.
Commentaires